About the beret
2022-10-03
Throughout
the history of fashion and style, many items of clothing have had more
or less widespread stereotypes and associations that have influenced the
perception of the garment in question - but none can boast as many as a
certain inconspicuous piece of headgear - namely the beret.
We have dispelled myths many times on Everyday Classic, so why not
do a couple in one go. The first, and probably the easiest (?) to
dispel, is that the beret is a typically female headwear. Originating in
the Pyrenees region, the soft cap, known since ancient times, was
originally more common among men; its association with the fairer sex is
more an after-effect of the men's stylistic restraint that has
prevailed, not only in our country, for at least several decades.
Another stereotype is represented by the innocent-sounding adjective 'French'. Although berets were undoubtedly popular in contry of wine and baguettes, the Pyrenees also belong to Spain - and it is the Basque country that is often cited as the cradle of the hat in question. The term French is also misleading in another respect - although it is so commonly associated with a striped shirt and a beret, when I asked French friends, they replied with amusement that they had not actually seen too many of their compatriots dressed like this; fortunately, fashion is global nowadays and, funnily enough, Instagram shows us that it's the Japanese who are leading the way in berets...
Another association, reproduced en masse in the media, is the depiction of an artist - usually a painter - with an easel, a palette, a brush, a scarf and a beret; it even seems to be an intrinsic attribute. Here again, the association is partly true - many eminent artists, such as Pablo Picasso, did in fact use this item of clothing; I wonder, however, whether is it not the case that this image has become fixed in our minds precisely because of some specific characters, and not necessarily through the attribution of the beret to the profession of artist?
Such
controversial connotations can be multiplied - it suffices it to mention
slogans such as 'mohair' or 'red berets'. In the meantime, the Dear
Reader may be asking himself or herself - why talk so much about a soft
hat? I rush to answer - the elimination of all these myths was needed in
order to dispel the biggest and most dangerous myth of all - namely that the beret is unlikable.
The low popularity of this headgear is in no way due to rationale or tradition, but merely to discrimination and ignorance. In our society, a well-dressed man usually hears (or sees in the eyes of passers-by) a lot of unsophisticated remarks about "how he's decked out"; a well-tailored double-breasted suit is enough for that, God forbid in a pinstripe - what does the statistical commentator think when he sees a beret on a man's head! Yes, it takes a lot of courage to wear a beret, at least in our country - but don't we hear similar comments about the classiest of hats, the fedora?
Doesn't
the sartorialist face incomprehension and loneliness when it comes to
expressive (yet not necessarily flamboyant) style? I dare say the beret
is a step further in self-confidence, but the style-conscious (or
encouraged by this article...?) man, having discarded myths, stereotypes
and other obstacles (often deeply rooted even in staunch dandies), can
discover great reserves of stylistic creativity with the help of his new
acquisition.
For if we consider the use of the beret, it is extremely versatile.
It certainly can't be considered formal headwear, but given its
association with artists - why shouldn't a copy in black/brown find its
way into the company of an evening suit and black oxfords when going to
the theatre/philharmonic? Taking it a step further, the wide range of
colours available makes it an interesting addition to elegant casual
ensembles that remain at a high level of elegance - with turtlenecks,
blazers and coats (in my own experience, the beret pairs particularly
well with a spring/autumn safari jacket!). The soft and carefree nature
of this headgear fits perfectly into the sprezzatura - a nonchalance
based on casualness and self-confidence. A casual beret with a
flirtatious twist can give life to a seemingly dull and polite ensemble.
There is another aspect worth discussing - a practical one. Berets are accused of being mostly made of wool (it is interesting to note that there are also corduroy, denim, linen and even raffia), but they do not keep the wearer's ears warm enough - but this argument applies to berets as well as hats, and no one is trying to erase these from the canon of classic masculine elegance. On the other hand, the rest of the head, wrapped in a soft material, is very pleasantly warmed without the discomfort of stiff edges pressing down on the wearer (should anyone however fall in love with berets and wish to wear them also in winter, there are also a number of variants that cover the ears). The beret can also be a valuable substitute for the flatcap, which due to its nature and origin aren't keeping with the chic atmosphere of some ensembles.
At the end of
this long text, one would like to shout "equal rights for berets!" - but
this is unlikely to happen; after all, berets are not for everyone. A
paradox, as this may be their greatest advantage - because how can you
best distinguish yourself without overstepping the boundaries of good
taste and entering the field of flashy, attention-seeking fashion? The answer is simple - by opting for forgotten classics.
And the beret certainly deserves to be called such. And although I
rarely (never?) see anyone with a beret on their head, wearing one
myself, I feel that I am declaring the courage of my own style without
looking at others - you could say that, as soft as the hat in question
is, my humble manifesto is just as inconspicuous (vive la Classique
Quotidien!).
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October 2022